Monday, January 31, 2011

Where's the Walmart?

So this weekend, the girls and I decided to try to find the Coop (pronounced Co-Op, not like a chicken coop) which is basically the local grocery store/ notsosuper Walmart. After paying 22.50 Euro for some lotion, I was ready to climb just about anything for a cheaper option. We were ready to go by 8:15 am (on a Saturday!) and began our trek down the masive hill that is Castiglion. We dicovered that there hardly any side walks anywhere, and cars will go anywhere and play chicken with anything. I'm still waiting to see someone get hit as the little Fiats whiz down narrow curvy medieval alleyways at 50 mph. Our first stop on the trip was a cafe called "La Perla". Their pasteries and cappiccino were AMAZING...and only 1.80 euro! After our bellies were full we set out to navigate through round-abouts (which were supposedly recently installed and no one can figure out how they work in Italy...like anyone in the USA know how to drive through them either) to find the Coop. It turned out to basically be the size of an Aldi...a really small Aldi. Oh, and you have to bring your own plasic bag or buy it from them. I'm starting to think the rooms of walmart trash bags I've accumulated over the years may be a sign of wealth here. Inside we looked for some snacks and I wanted juice. I stood infront of an area where there seemed to be bottled orange juice, lemonade, tea, etc. The three different juices in front of me looked funny, so I chose the least off color one. Once outside I openned the bottle right away and fizzzzz...shoot. Carbonated Juice. It wasn't bad, but not what I was looking for.

Later we wanted to get lunch, but all of Italy shuts down from 1-4 (or 12-4 in this town). Houston we have a problem. Because I'm lazy, I'm stealing the story of our next adventure from Cara. Enjoy-

Today I ate like an Italian.  Before I let you know what I ate, because that’s obviously what we’re all here for, you must understand the Italian’s schedule.  Shops and restaurants open in the morning until about noon.  Then they close from about 1-4, so that the shopkeepers and workers can go home and have a three hour lunch/siesta.  Today, we had planned on going to the cafĂ© in the morning (where I successfully ordered a pastry and hot chocolate), walking to the store at the bottom of the hill to get some groceries before the siesta, and making it back up the hill for a pezzi di pizza (piece of pizza).  Unfortunately in our small town, siesta starts earlier than we expected, so the only place we found open was a restaurant called Ristorante da Muzzicone.  It is owned by an old, chain-smoking Italian named Tugli.  He opened the door for us and let us know that it was “Apresto,” or open for you uncultured Kansans. 
When we entered, we saw that it was clearly a nicer place - every table set with tablecloths, wine glasses at each seat, everything you would expect in a nicer restaurant.  He didn’t speak English, so we tried our best to ask about the costs.  He brought us a poster that had the menu on it and showed that it was going to be 25 euro/person for an appetizer, pasta, meat, dessert, wine, water, and coffee if you so choose.  It was the type of menu where you pay to eat what he is making that day or you don’t eat there at all.  He saw that we were very hesitant (because we only wanted a light lunch that didn’t cost much), so after we deliberated a while if we should stay or not, he told us he would feed the whole table but only charge for 5 plates (there were 8 of us). We decided to accept that and just take it as an experience. 
The meal began, naturally, with wine – Il Rosso 12.  He brought out some bread and we got comfortable in our seats.  After a while, he brought out the antipasti, which was a meat tray of prosciutto, sliced salami as well as thin deli-like pieces of salami.  Next, he brought out a tray of noodles covered in a cheesy cream sauce with small pieces of bacon in it.  Oh. My. Goodness.  DELICIOSO!  Kelsey had three servings. I held back with just two servings, and needed some digestion time before the next course.  This was by far my favorite dish so far.
After drinking more wine and talking about life, the main course was brought out.  Slices of cooked meat soaking in olive oil and vinaigrette, covered with what I thought was a pine tree at first, but turned out to be rosemary.  Pretty tasty once again!  Finally came our first real dessert this semester – tiramisu.  We learned from our Italian teacher that tiramisu means “lift me up.”  This is because it was originally used for people who are sick, because it helps give them energy.  It was molto bene!  I hate coffee, but despite the espresso taste this dessert was super. 
Enough about the food and on to more interesting things.  This restaurant is a family business.  The owner just sat at a table and drank wine and smoked the whole time we were there.  He would be a very intimidating person if you came across him in a dark alley, but if you are friendly to him, he is friendly to you.  In the middle of our lunch, we noticed a bit of a quarrel between a waiter and another man dining there.  Apparently he didn’t like the cost of the meal, and was complaining.  The man eventually went to the owner and they were yelling at each other in Italian.  Tugli told the man to get out of his restaurant and never come back, plus a nice “F.. you!” in English.  The man left without paying, but I am positive he is going to be dead by the end of the night.  Good thing we tipped Tugli well, because thanks to the Godfather I now know that if you are in with the mafia and don’t wrong them they won’t kill you.  We’re in the clear. 

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Italy = Leaky Gelato Cone

Ciao! Today I'll begin with another list of firsts-

First trip to the Friday morning market in Piazza Garibaldi- there were soo many vendors! Everything from fruit to clothes to toiletries and linens....and all at pretty good prices.

First cappuccino- at Bar 2000 in piazza Garibaldi. delicioso!

First train ride- to Arezzo! We got off the train and were immediately greated with a relatively modern city, at least by the train station. Our tour guide Giovani, who was more entertaining than the sights themselves, met us here. He told us that in order to blend in more with the locals, we needed to stop saying "grazie" (thank you) and "scusi" (excuse me) so much and also to never order cappuccino after morning. He then mentioned that the Italian economy was the same as a leaky gelato cone or the titanic...it's going down and fast! But apparently world gelato sales went up 40% last year, so he said his hopes were there...not. We went into our first church which had a fake facade and beautiful frescos inside. Giovani said he was married in this church (his now wife is from Texas) and his mom hired a cheap exorcist for the event. This didn't really work out since he got married anyway. He now speaks english with a southern twang. The rest of the day consisted of a fast paced tour of the city's other historical wonders. I plan on returning next weekend for an antique fair that happens the first weekend of every month...exciting!

Now for things I learned about Italian culture this weekend-

Both our tour guides this week, Lorella and Giovani, asked us if we knew anything about Prime Minister Berlusconi and his harem. Then they made sure that we knew he was  not representative of the Italian people. good to know. They also both informed us that Saint Frances of Assisi is the most beloved saint of Italy....oh and by the way, he's at least 55% French.

All drinks here have foam or fizz, including but not limited to- milk, coffee, juice, most water, mixed alchoholic beverages... but not hot chocolate. Instead they basically take a block of chocolate and melt it in a cup. the end. I think I have a cavity from looking at my roommates' hot cocoa this morning.

They listen to mostly American music. In the Velvet Underground I've heard "artists" who's songs I wished never followed me here- Nickelback, Rihanna, Green Day- bands I was glad to hear - Seether, Ozzy, and FINALLY an Italian band- Lacuna Coil. bout time they started listening to their own music!!!

oh, I'm pretty sure I actually have leg muscles now, which is a new thing. The shin splints, however, are not new or welcome....unlike the belly perpetually full of magic which is more than welcome. Ciao!

Thursday, January 27, 2011

It's not Just the Yellow Ones that Don't Stop!

So, during the past few days I've learned a few things about Italian culture that differ from America...

In walking around for oh, about a day, I have already had more exercise than in the past two years combined...The reason why no one is fat here. Cara, Kelsey and I are making progress though; we climbed the 3 flights of stairs to our room without panting today! Go us!

When you try to speak Italian to the locals, they speak back in broken English. The girls and I discovered this on our first shopping trip to the farmacia. We entered the extremely small store and proceeded to stare blankly at the products before us. Unlike the USA, almost NOTHING is priced. Finally, I found some lotion and toothpaste that were familiar brands. I brought them to the counter and the woman, who most likely was the owner. She rang up the 2 items and then announced, in broken English, that it was 27.35 Euros....ouch. This brought me to the next logical question- How in the world does anyone afford to live here! I guess they just deal with the dry, cracked skin that comes with winter.

Our next adventure was trying to buy a hair dryer. The woman in the salon didn't speak any english, so we pointed to the device and asked "quanto costa" (how much?) The woman told us 35 euros and then took the dryer out of the box and demonstrated that it did, in fact, work. She also pointed to the instructions and told us to read them. They are in Italian...so we did not. Everyone we've met in the stores so far have been really helpful and super nice, which is lucky since short simple phrases are all I can spit out. Yay for hand motions.

Another interesting fact about Italy- nearly every town has a piazza girabaldi. Our local Italian teacher, Lorella, pointed this out to us as she took us on a tour of the town. She also mentioned that the city begins with a large gateway (arch) that points to Roma and ends with one that points to Firenze. magical.

The main thing I've learned--It's not just yellow taxis that don't stop here. Pedestrians DO NOT have the right away...and as stupid as those little smart cars are this will hurt you when they run you over going 50 down a medieval alleyway. Proceed with caution.

Something about Italy that's the same? The weather. We went from a balmy sunny day to clouds and gale force winds...sound familiar? I thought so.

Another note- Cara has been doing a spill of the day, but she didn't spill today and I did. I am no longer allowed to pour water at the table (darn you depth perception) and the sleeve of my white coat is adorned with kiwi stains. Snack for later.

Tomorrow we are headed on our first trip... to Arezzo! Pictures will follow.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

You're Welcome, Italy

We finally made it to the promised land today! Most of the day consisted of riding on a bus and gazing out at the hillside towns while incrementally passing out. The surrounding country side is full of grape vines and laced with olive trees, and the small medieval town...isn't so small. Castiglion Fiorentino is actually quite the booming metropolis! Perhaps metropolis is an exaggeration, but there's definitely a lot going on here. We were taken on a brief guided tour of our surroundings by our RAs- and although I didn't take any pictures yet I have my eye on a few spots to return to tomorrow...so pictures will follow.

Tonight was our first dinner at Santa Chiara...and it was PHENOMINAL. We began with a local "expensive" vino (9 euros) and pasta with a light cream tomato basil sauce. This was followed by fresh chicken and potatoes and for desert, fruit. Everything tastes so fresh, the kiwi I just ate was definitely the best I've had. So now we're dealing with the cold and I'm thinking very stongly about investing in a blanket.

On a side note, Cara, Kelsey and I managed to fry all the outlets/internet some moments ago. There was smoke, but luckly no one got anything blown off and my lemon computer still functions. Success. We are wondering how long it will be before we destroy something else. You're welcome, Italy.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Andiamo!

Like everyone else in Kansas State's Architecture program, I've decieded to be cool and keep a blog of my adventures abroad. Check back for updates on our travels, the sights we see, and the gelato we eat. Next post will most likely be from Italia. Arrivederci!